pistachio blood orange tartlets

As soon as the month of March is in sight, I´m among those who will eagerly notice the slightest signs of spring: a green leaf here, a new blossom there, the sun rising a little earlier than last week, the choir of birds singing a little more enthusiastically in the morning. Actually, I wouldn´t mind skipping winter altogether, proceeding from golden October to bright spring days in the blink of an eye. I wouldn´t miss a thing. Or would I? Metereological adversities aside, admittedly there´s quite a few things I like about the cold season: say candles,  cookies, Christmas - and citrus. J´adore les agrumes! Oranges and blood oranges, tangerines and clementines, lemons,  limes & grapefruit - over the past months, the entire citrus clan subsequently moved into my kitchen, and helped me through the cold and grey: each sip and bite a little boost of sunshine. 

Now that today feels like spring for the first time,  the bowl that held piles of oranges and clementines will slowly empty over the next week or so. Next time I buy fruit, I´ll probably chose pears over tangerines, dump the blood oranges for the rhubarb, and the first strawberries are always a temptation on their own, one I can never resist to, even if  it will take tons of powdered sugar to bring out their real selves. The allure of the new will make me unfaithful, I know, my beloved oranges will end up being left behind - but before that happens, let´s celebrate together one more time. Let´s have tartlets. Orange, or blood orange and pistachio tartlets. Or lemon, or grapefruit, or tangerine. Anything goes with that scrumptious pistachio tart crust (actually, it´s all about the crust, but don´t tell!). It´s so simple and good. And then, let´s move on to spring!

Blood orange & pistachio tartlets (yields 6 tartlets):

pistachio tart crust:

175 g flour
50 g ground pistachios, from salted pistachios
60 g confectioner´s sugar
3 egg yolks
110 g unsalted butter
pinch of salt (only if using unsalted pistachios)
2-3 tbsp cold water

blood orange curd:
180 ml blood orange juice
juice from 1 lemon (25 ml)
2 eggs + 2 yolks
80 g butter
120 g sugar
blood orange zest if using untreated oranges

decoration:
handful of chopped pistachios
1-2 blood orange, quartered, then very finely sliced
confectioner´s sugar

Make the crust: In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or by hand), working at low to medium speed, mix all the ingredients except water until you obtain a fine crumble, 3-5 min. Then add water 1 tbsp at a time, until the dough comes together. At the end, there should be no more visible butter flakes. Shape a ball, wrap in cling film and refrigerate for 1 hour or longer.

For the curd, squeeze out enough blood oranges to obtain 180 ml juice, plus one lemon. If you have organic fruit, zest 3 of the oranges prior to juicing them. Combine all ingredients for the curd except eggs in a saucepan, set over moderate heat, and allow butter to melt. As soon as the butter has melted, add eggs and yolks, stirring constantly for 7-10 minutes, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Set aside to cool (continue to stir for 30 sec to 1 more minute once the heat is off to avoid curdling).

Preheat your oven to 180°C/350 °F. Grease 6 tartlets tins with butter and line them with the rolled out pastry. Make sure to work on a well floured surface, and using a well floured rolling pin etc as the dough is quite delicate.

Prick tartlets multiple times with a fork, cover each one with a circle of parchment and add some ovenproof weights.  Blind bake tartlets for a couple of minutes (about 7 min should do).

Remove parchment and weights, pour cooled curd into pastry shells. Bake for another 12-15 minutes approx. Leave to cool on a wire rack, unmould once cooled.

To serve, quarter 1 or 2 blood oranges and slice them very finely. On a parchment paper lined baking tray, dust orange slices with confectioner´s or brown sugar. Brown oranges under oven broiler under constant sight. Sprinkle tartlets with a few chopped pistachios and a couple of "burnt" orange slices.

La tarte au chocolat à la réglisse

Recipe: chocolat liquorice tart 

When we moved to Paris some time ago, I arrived with a ragtag idea of France composed from childhood memories of holidays spent in Paris, at the coast of Brittany and in Provence. It was a perception I knew I couldn´t trust, a fragmentary postcard image of vintage looking bakeries, retro charme cars and nonchalant flaneurs with baguettes under the arm. It was obvious it wouldn´t stand the test of ordinary life, which has its flaws here as much as anywhere else. However, while in France, it´s easy to get captured by the flair of what one might think of as the good old days, radiated by so many everyday objects and items: an old fashioned Métro entrance perhaps, an elegant hôtel particulier (grand house or villa), a beautiful vintage plate - or a tiny box of licorice candy. Cachou Lajaunie, just that name. Holding the black & yellow box in my palm, I instantly picture that same box might have fallen of some school kids´s satchel fifty years ago. I´m sure it looks exactly the same today, as it did then.

Recently, in the mood for a very early spring clean, I found about a year´s supply of Cachou Lajaunie pastilles in several purses and kitchen pantries. At times, it´s good to have daily dose of nostalgia on hand wherever you go. But with reserves like that, I could easily do without a spoonful or two, and that´s how this tart saw the light of day. I love adding an unexpected flavor to desserts, especially chocolat ganaches,  then make my family guess what it might be. It´s a fun game, especially if no one has a clue. But they´re really good at it! The Cachou Lajaunie bonbons add a smoky, earthy undertone from the licorice, yet also a little freshness from the mint, a combination that works wonderfully with the dark chocolat. If you don´t like licorice, just leave it out and try the tart plain, with chocolate and perhaps a dash of fleur de sel. The slightly runny filling  ( it´s called mi-cuit, half-cooked ) is so silky and smooth,  simply heavenly!

Tarte au chocolat à la réglisse, façon `mi-cuit`:

makes one 8 inch/20 cm tart

Salted butter almond crust:
180 g flour
50 g ground almonds
115 g cold cubed salted butter
1 egg yolk
3-4 tbsp cold water
60 g powdered sugar

Chocolate filling:
140 g dark chocolate
1 tsp licorice Lajaunie bonbons -about 15 little pastilles
120 g cream
2 fresh eggs

For the crust, combine all ingredients except water until a crumbly dough starts to form. Add water, one tablespoon at a time, until the dough will be homogenous, without any visible chunks of butter. Shape a disc , wrap in cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes or more.

When ready to bake, roll out the dough on a floured surface. Line a buttered tart mould and cut off excess pastry from the edges (keeps in the fridge for a few days, or refrigerated for up to 3 months). Prick with a fork multiple times, refrigerate again until the oven is preheated to 180°C/350°F. Cover pastry with a circle of parchment paper,  spread oven proof weights all over, and blind bake for 12-15 minutes. Switch the oven off.

While the pastry is baking, beat eggs in a small bowl. Break chocolate into small chunks. 

Bring cream and licorice candy to a soft boil, stirring all the time so the candy melt entirely in the cream. Off the heat, stir in the chocolate chunks until completely melted. Using a fork, whisk in the eggs to obtain a smooth, creamy mixture.

Remove weights and parchment from the pastry shell. Pour chocolat mixture into the baked tart shell, return to the switched off oven for 8-10 minutes, until somewhat set, but still a bit wobbly. 

Serve lukewarm or just cooled.